Setting sag is the one thing that every rider thinks he can do but
normally does wrong. You would think that making two measurements and
subtracting one from the other would be simple. Not so! Here are some
(1) Do not measure the sag with the rider standing up.
on the suspension before measuring.
(3) Sit where you actually ride, not
some dream position.
(4) Measure in line with the arc of the rear
How do you measure sag? Put your bike on a stand with the rear wheel off
the ground, and measure from the rear fender to the rear axle. Write
that number on your buddy’s forehead. Next, remove the bike from the stand
and climb on board. Once you are positioned on the bike, have your buddy
make the same measurement again. Subtract the new number from the one
written on his forehead. The result should be 4 inches or 100mm,
whichever comes first.
What should you do if it isn’t 100mm? Loosen the shock’s preload ring
and turn the collar in the proper direction to make the spring stiffer
or softer. Then, measure again and again until you get 100mm.
SAG IS A HOT PRODUCT
We know this sounds like a broken record, but that is better than a broken bone. Check your sag
before each race. It changes. One caveat: do not check the sag when the
shock is hot—and it gets hot very quickly. If you’ve just ridden your
bike in the first practice and think that you should check the sag
before the second practice, save yourself the trouble. The hot shock
will not give you an accurate measurement. Wait until the shock cools
down. You can use sag as a tuning tool. Jeremy McGrath liked to set his
sag at more than 100mm. Why? He wanted the rear shock to feel dead in
the whoops. On the other hand, setting the sag at less than 100mm can
make your bike handle quicker in the turns, because it raises the rear
of the bike, which steepens the head angle. As a rule of thumb, every
MXA test rider starts at 100mm, and most stay there.
THERE IS ANOTHER KIND OF SAG: FREE SAG
Free sag is a measurement of how much the bike sags under its own weight
(without you on it). Free sag can only be checked after race sag is
How do you check free sag? Once you have the preload set at 100mm for
your weight, position the bike on level ground, grab the bike under the
rear fender and lift up—like you are going to pick the bike up off the
ground. Did you feel the shock move? How far could you lift the rear
fender up before the rear wheel tried to leave the ground? Was it 25mm?
Was it 3mm? The amount of slop in the rear end is called “free sag.”
How much free sag should there be? Free sag should be between 30mm and
40mm. If you have more than 40mm of free sag, your shock spring is too
stiff. Less than 30mm and your spring is too soft.
This is so important and so basic that you need to repeat after us: if
you have excess free sag, your shock spring is too stiff. Now ask
yourself, why? That’s simple; you haven’t been eating enough. Gain
weight and you will have to preload the shock spring more, which will
take up the excess free sag. If you don’t want to pork up, you should
consider a lighter shock spring.
If you have very little free sag, your shock spring is too soft. Why?
Because to hold your body up, the shock spring has to be preloaded way
down into its stroke. It is overstressed, so overstressed that it is
working overtime to hold up the bike; thus it has no jangle left in the
rear end. The solution? Buy a stiffer shock spring (or go on a diet).
Race sag and free sag are kissin’ cousins. Once you set the proper 100mm
of race sag, you need to measure the free sag. If your bike has more
than 40mm of free sag, you need a softer shock spring. If it has no
static sag, you need a stiffer shock spring. Many times a rider will set the race sag at 100mm and find out that he
has no static sag at all, but he wants to race the bike. What should he
do? Back the race sag off until there is at least 10mm of static sag.
Free sag trumps race sag in this extreme condition.
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