2022 450 FOUR-STROKE MODELS RELEASED THUS FAR | NOT MUCH AS CHANGED
TWO-STROKE SPOTLIGHT: 2007 KAWASAKI KX125 BEFORE AND AFTER
“This is a 2007 KZ125 project bike I have been working on. I bought it 3 years ago and stripped it down to bare frame. I had the frame powder coated black. I stripped the engine down and replaced all transmission bearing and replaced the standard crank with a Hot Works crank and also replaced standard cylinder with an after market Athena barrel and head. I put on a Bud Racing HGS pipe and carbon fiber exhaust.
I had the suspension revalved and serviced by Shock Treatment which used Race Tech suspension parts. When I saw the kit to make the 125 look the same as the 2017 KX250F I started the process of finding out how to purchase the kit. Through phone conversations with Pro Circuit I found I could purchase the kit through a fella in new Zealand named Graig Guy. I purchased the kit then went about acquiring the parts from Kawasaki which included:
KX250F 2017/2018 PARTS
Through some extensive hours of heating and molding the fuel tank to suit the KX125 frame, I then attached all the plastics, seat and a 2017 Bud Racing graphics kit to make the bike I have today. The one great thing I can say about Kawasaki’s is most the parts of the 2017 bike will fit the 2007 bike.” –Jason Hayter.
Editors Note: Please keep those submissions coming. If you would like your bike to be featured in the “Two-Stroke Spotlight,” please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org. All I ask is that you give a breakdown of your bike and a detailed description of the build. Please also send a few photos of your steed. By submitting your bike for the “Two-Stroke Spotlight,” you agree to release all ownership rights to the images and copy to MXA.
MECHANIC OF THE STARS TRICK YAMAHA YZ250 TWO-STROKE
Rider: Eli Tomac
Bike: Factory Kawasaki KX450
Location: Salt Lake City Supercross final
MXA TEST | 2021 GASGAS MC 125
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ASK THE MXPERTS: THE BOLTS ON MY BIKE COME LOOSE CONSTANTLY, HOW CAN I STOP THIS?
I put Loctite on all the bolts on my bike, but many of them come loose after a few rides. What am I doing wrong?
First, stop putting Loctite (or any other threadlock product) on every bolt on your bike. That is a recipe for disaster. Not every bolt needs to have its hatches battened down. Avoid using threadlock on frequently removed small nuts and bolts, especially on light-duty bolts, such as those used to hold on side panels. Loctite should never be used on radiator shroud bolts. Why not? The radiator shroud bolts thread into nuts that are embedded into the plastic gas tank. If the Loctite seizes the bolts in place, the nut will spin inside the plastic gas tank if you use too much force. Once the nut spins loose from its plastic cavity, it will be a problem forever.
You must remove residue from a bolt before applying Loctite, especially on bolts that were previously Loctited. Old Loctite under new Loctite will give a false torque reading, which will make that bolt come loose. You need to clean the threads every time the bolt is removed. While it’s possible to remove the old threadlock, there isn’t always enough time between motos. That’s why it’s better not to use threadlock; instead, use assembly lube and the proper torque specs—at regular intervals.
You didn’t mention what type of Loctite you were using, but it makes a big difference. Loctite offers 16 different types of blue, red and green threadlock. They are for different temperatures, breakaway torques or uses—as well as removable, permanent or wicking applications. On bolts that you will be removing with standard tools, use blue Loctite. Red Loctite is for permanent applications. Red Loctite requires more torque to overcome the threadlock hold (breakaway torque). If the red Loctite won’t come loose, heat can be applied to help loosen its hold. Loctite also offers wicking threadlocks that can be applied to already tightened, exposed threads.
The two most popular threadlocks are Blue Loctite 242 and Red Loctite 262. The Red 262 threadlock has a breakaway torque of 168 in/lb and is recommended for 10mm to 25mm bolts. Once applied, it allows five minutes of work time before it sets up. It is best to apply a little heat, where possible, to ease removal of red Loctite. Blue 242 has a 10-minute work time and a breakaway torque of 115 in/lb. It’s designed for 6mm to 19mm bolts. It should be noted that they all require 24 hours for a full cure. That makes them mostly ineffective as a between-moto treatment.
Be forewarned that exhaust pipe fittings do not like threadlock. Four-stroke head pipes can exceed 500 degrees Fahrenheit. That is hot enough to liquefy most common threadlock compounds.
As a rule of thumb, try not to use threadlock; instead, rely on the proper torque specs from your owner’s manual. If you must use threadlock, use the appropriate grade of a removable type. That means either Loctite 220 (on 4mm and smaller threads) or 242 (on 5mm to 19mm threads). Only use a permanent threadlock when specified by the manufacturer or on threads larger than 20mm (and only use a permanent threadlock in an area that can be heated to 300 degrees or higher). Loctite can’t fix a worn-out bolt. You should replace all bolts and nuts with sloppy threads. For a proper hold, a bolt needs three complete revolutions of threads to be filled with the fluid. Two drops of threadlock is usually enough on 6mm and 8mm threads. More can be used, but it doesn’t necessarily result in more holding force.
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INSIDE JORDAN SMITH’S PRO CIRCUIT KX250
RANDOM RADNESS | FACTORY BIKES FROM THE 1999 SUPERCROSS SEASON
2021 ADELANTO GRAND PRIX MOVES TO ADELANTO STADIUM BECAUSE OF ELON MUSK
The Adelanto Grand Prix lost its race track when Elon Musk bought the land for his Boring Company to test drilling tunnels for his proposed underground high-speed rail transportation system. They have since moved the GP to Adelanto Stadium for a 3-day event on May 28-May 30. For more information and to find out if Elon Musk bought Adelanto Stadium go to www.adelantogp.com.
Moto Trivia answer: Brock Sellards 1999